Day 22 Monday, July 12 - Off to York
Another nice day and we are off as usual at 8am with a stop at the Duke and Duchess of Roxburghe’s Floors (flowers) Castle. It is a working estate of over 50,000 acres with most of the land rented our for tenant farming. We arrive early and are the only tourists during our visit. It is not unusual to see members of the family who live in the estate and apparently we just missed the Duchess. The Castle is the one used in the film Greystone where “Tarzan” stayed in the movie. The Castle is very impressive with art and furnishings from very centuries. As is often the case with Dukes and others of ‘blue blood‘ who marry into non-titled wealth, the 8th Duke married an American heiress, May Goelet, who brought an impressive collection of floor to ceiling (these are castle ceilings) tapestries that cover entire rooms. Most impressive Castle so far.
An interesting area passed along the way is Keilder Forest which is home to over 50 different species of lady bugs, the most in all of Europe. It is a mystery as to why the bugs call it home since the forest itself was only planted in the 1920’s.
We pass into England at 11:20 am and it immediately starts to rain, much to the amusement of our English guide and driver. We stop to see a portion of Hadrian’s wall that was built by the Romans to keep the barbarians (read Scots) out of England. The wall covered 84 miles across all of England from Carlisle to New Castle. The Roman soldiers were used to build it and it took 4 years to complete the 22 foot high, 8 foot wide structure. It was discovered recently (no idea what recently means in this country) that the wall was painted white to frighten the ‘scots’. This was the furthest northern limit of the roman empire during the greatest days of the empire.
We pass Newcastle on the river Tyme and the largest shopping centre in Europe (nothing compared to the monster malls in North America..nothing to brag about) which attracts shoppers from Norway and Sweden, two countries that apparently are as expensive, if not more so, than Britain and Ireland.
We stop in York, the most complete medieval city in England. We were too late to get into York Minster, the gothic cathedral, second only to Canterbury, but it commands impressive views from many sites in the city. The city is on the river Ouse which runs through the city and is a major waterway for the canal barge boats used for touring.
450 years after the Romans left, the Vikings arrived from Ireland and called the place Jorvik, now York. York’s street names almost all originated with the Vikings. The ‘Shambles’ proves to be the highlight, a twisting lane where the house seem to lean in with the top stories almost touching. The word ‘shambles’ is derived from an early word for slaughterhouse which is what the street once housed. There are hooks along the walls of the shops which once held pieces of meat and the cobbled streets lead downward with wide runnels to allow the blood to flow.
A very pretty city and lots to see. We stop for the night at the Ramada York, another internet-unfriendly hotel.
Friday, July 17, 2009
Day 21 Sunday, July 12 An Edinburgh Day
Day 21 Sunday, July 12 An Edinburgh Day
A comfortable day of sun, clouds and brief showers starts with a bus tour and local guide.
We toured Edinburgh Castle and saw the Scottish Crown Jewels and the history of the Castle is quite amazing as it was used to house prisoners of various wars, including WWII (worth googling). There are cells where prisoners were held, and various artifacts from the various wars (seems Britain is never short of war relics of one sort or another). The Royal Mile is a mile long street, mostly for pedestrians, is lined with shops and pubs and entertainers and at either end is Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace where the Royals stay when in Edinburgh (we tour this as well).
The old city, which includes the Royal Mile, Castle and Palace is on the higher ground and very hilly. The new part of the city was designed by a young Spanish architect and is the first city to use the now standard grid system with streets running north-south and east-west, making it easy to find your way around. There are plenty of pubs and shopping areas and the view from the new city looking up is quite impressive.
This evening there is an optional tour of the moored Royal Yacht Britannia, once the royal residence for the Queen’s state visits and family holidays. They never traveled on it as, apparently, they would fly to meet the yacht and then stay on it. The consensus is that it appears quite small in terms of size of rooms and not as “ritzy” as people expected.
A comfortable day of sun, clouds and brief showers starts with a bus tour and local guide.
We toured Edinburgh Castle and saw the Scottish Crown Jewels and the history of the Castle is quite amazing as it was used to house prisoners of various wars, including WWII (worth googling). There are cells where prisoners were held, and various artifacts from the various wars (seems Britain is never short of war relics of one sort or another). The Royal Mile is a mile long street, mostly for pedestrians, is lined with shops and pubs and entertainers and at either end is Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace where the Royals stay when in Edinburgh (we tour this as well).
The old city, which includes the Royal Mile, Castle and Palace is on the higher ground and very hilly. The new part of the city was designed by a young Spanish architect and is the first city to use the now standard grid system with streets running north-south and east-west, making it easy to find your way around. There are plenty of pubs and shopping areas and the view from the new city looking up is quite impressive.
This evening there is an optional tour of the moored Royal Yacht Britannia, once the royal residence for the Queen’s state visits and family holidays. They never traveled on it as, apparently, they would fly to meet the yacht and then stay on it. The consensus is that it appears quite small in terms of size of rooms and not as “ritzy” as people expected.
Thursday, July 16, 2009
Day 20 Saturday July 11 St.Andrews and Edinburgh
Day 20 Saturday, July 11 St. Andrews & Edinburgh
Another nice day that sees us traveling through the Grampian Mountains and some ski areas. The roads are extremely narrow, hilly and winding and closed in the winter due to snow conditions. There are snow poles along the roads to mark the road when in snow. These roads, like many through Britain were built by General Wade in the 1700’s for the movement of troops. Every so many miles there are spots to pull over to allow oncoming traffic to pass as in places the road is really singl lane. This is the area near Balmoral Castle where the royals spend time in August. They are often seen driving their landrovers along the roads. The Castle itself cannot be seen from the roads.
This is also called the “whiskey trail” as 80% of the distilleries are located in the area. There are cairns (piles of rocks) along the route where people add a stone for good luck. Naturally we stop and most of us add our own rock to the pile. Again, spectacular scenery.
We stop for lunch in Braemar the home of the highland games and witness (what is described as a parade) a young pipe band preparing for the junior games which are to begin the following day. We see the home of Robert Louis Stevenson of Treasure Island fame who began the book while sickly in the top room of the row type house in which he lived.
Now quite sunny we stop at St. Andrews, whose Royal and Ancient Golf Club (1754) has given us the rules of golfing. Many pictures taken at the 18th hole as golfers play out the hole. The course itself is actually public and they do not play Sundays when the entire course is open to the public for walking. there are 5 courses on the site and the old course is on the sea and the sandy beach is the one used in the film “Chariots of Fire”.
We pass through Kelso where Anne’s father was stationed during WWII and take pictures from the coach to show him on our return. The city has a population of about 165,000, the 4th largest in Scotland and is where the ATM was invented and where Scott left on the Discovery and then the Terra Nova to the Antarctica (beaten there by the Norwegians).
We leave Dundee to Edinburgh over the elegant Fourth Road Bridge where we stop at the Barcelo Edinburgh Carlton, on the North Bridge, another ‘non-internet friendly’ hotel. While the high and unnecessary cost of internet access is not a problem for most, it is one of the things that bothers me the most.
The majority of the group head off to dinner and a Scottish evening with dancers, bagpipes and a bit of the Haggis. Anne and I do not go but head on our own for a walking tour and an Italian dinner on the Royal Mile. Talking to some of those who did attend the event indicates that it was a success and enjoyed. Edinburgh is very busy with the Royal Mile and both the old and new parts of the city being very crowded and, unfortunately, very dirty. Part of the reason for the crowds relates to a Crosby, Stills and Nash Concert this evening at the site of Edinburgh Castle at the top of the Royal Mile. The street is cobbled with varied entertainment including musicians, sword swallower, mimes etc. It is also Saturday night in a University town. It is an easy city to walk in with the major sites visible, impressive and accessible.
Another nice day that sees us traveling through the Grampian Mountains and some ski areas. The roads are extremely narrow, hilly and winding and closed in the winter due to snow conditions. There are snow poles along the roads to mark the road when in snow. These roads, like many through Britain were built by General Wade in the 1700’s for the movement of troops. Every so many miles there are spots to pull over to allow oncoming traffic to pass as in places the road is really singl lane. This is the area near Balmoral Castle where the royals spend time in August. They are often seen driving their landrovers along the roads. The Castle itself cannot be seen from the roads.
This is also called the “whiskey trail” as 80% of the distilleries are located in the area. There are cairns (piles of rocks) along the route where people add a stone for good luck. Naturally we stop and most of us add our own rock to the pile. Again, spectacular scenery.
We stop for lunch in Braemar the home of the highland games and witness (what is described as a parade) a young pipe band preparing for the junior games which are to begin the following day. We see the home of Robert Louis Stevenson of Treasure Island fame who began the book while sickly in the top room of the row type house in which he lived.
Now quite sunny we stop at St. Andrews, whose Royal and Ancient Golf Club (1754) has given us the rules of golfing. Many pictures taken at the 18th hole as golfers play out the hole. The course itself is actually public and they do not play Sundays when the entire course is open to the public for walking. there are 5 courses on the site and the old course is on the sea and the sandy beach is the one used in the film “Chariots of Fire”.
We pass through Kelso where Anne’s father was stationed during WWII and take pictures from the coach to show him on our return. The city has a population of about 165,000, the 4th largest in Scotland and is where the ATM was invented and where Scott left on the Discovery and then the Terra Nova to the Antarctica (beaten there by the Norwegians).
We leave Dundee to Edinburgh over the elegant Fourth Road Bridge where we stop at the Barcelo Edinburgh Carlton, on the North Bridge, another ‘non-internet friendly’ hotel. While the high and unnecessary cost of internet access is not a problem for most, it is one of the things that bothers me the most.
The majority of the group head off to dinner and a Scottish evening with dancers, bagpipes and a bit of the Haggis. Anne and I do not go but head on our own for a walking tour and an Italian dinner on the Royal Mile. Talking to some of those who did attend the event indicates that it was a success and enjoyed. Edinburgh is very busy with the Royal Mile and both the old and new parts of the city being very crowded and, unfortunately, very dirty. Part of the reason for the crowds relates to a Crosby, Stills and Nash Concert this evening at the site of Edinburgh Castle at the top of the Royal Mile. The street is cobbled with varied entertainment including musicians, sword swallower, mimes etc. It is also Saturday night in a University town. It is an easy city to walk in with the major sites visible, impressive and accessible.
Day 19 Friday July 10 Whiskey tour and Nessie Search
Day 19 Friday, July 10 Inverewe Gardens & Glen Orn Whiskey Distillery - Search for Nessie
Seems I put our search for Nessie in yesterday's tour..actually it was today.
One of the easy days when we don’t have to rush to get the bags out and head off to a new City. We do get on the ‘coach’, but this time to tour and back to the same hotel. Some of us are getting a bit weary, particularly those who are on their second tour. Many from Australia, New Zealand and some from the U.S.A. have already done a tour in Europe, the United States or western Canada. They are indeed a hardy bunch.
The weather holds up as we head off along the shores of Loch Maree to Inverewe Gardens. This is as far north as we go and we are at the same latitude as Labrador and Moscow. This explains the very long hours of daylight but not the vegetation, plants etc. we see in the gardens. There are plants from around the world, including Canadian pines, and subtropical plants that thrive because of the warm gulf stream. It is an interesting walk bordering the Sea and the only drawback are the small, biting insects, akin to sand fleas and black flies, that are attracted to the flowering plants and the sweet aroma. Guide Michael refers to them as “no-see-ums” a terms also used in Canada.
We drive back south along Loch Glascarnoch and stop for some scenic photos along the way at Loch Broon and the Loch Moor Valley. While we see a lot more open, rural land areas than expected it is pointed out that not an inch of Great Britain has not been lived upon, mined, or built upon over the centuries. The many expansive barren fields and hills, now populated everywhere with sheep, were once heavily forested, often with oak. Even the famous and blooming heather was actually planted during the Elizabethan times. There is a great deal of reforestation underway throughout Great Britain and Ireland. The roads are again extremely narrow and winding.
Our next stop is the Glen Ord distillery which I find extremely interesting. Emily, our young guide, is a local and working during a University break where she is studying opera singing in Glasgow. We follow the entire process to the end where the whiskey is stored in thousands of barrels. Only about 5% of the 200 million litres of alcohol produced is used for their single malt Glen Ord brand. The rest is used for blended whiskeys like Johnny Walker, or Baileys, gin etc. We see the barrels where the alcohol is stored in casks from Kentucky (bourbon barrels) or Spain (Sherry). After storage of 12 years the contents are ’married’ on a 50/50 basis to make their whiskey. The barrels are purchased in Kentucky and Spain, taken apart for shipping, and put reassembled by Coopers. They store the filled casks in over 50 sites across Great Britain. Apparently the coopers are paid by the cask and the record to reassemble a cask currently stands at about 7 & 1/2 minutes.
Back to the hotel and then many of us head off on an optional, but far from free, search by boat for Nessie, the famous Loch Ness monster. We start with an interesting museum visit where the history of Nessie sightings and scientific investigations are presented and then board boats to search for ourselves. Alas, no sightings. There is a myth that Saint Columba, one of Saint Patrick’s desciples, holds the record for the first sighting, and he drove the monster off with a crucifix (doesn’t just work for vampires). We dine at the local Nessie hotel, the Drumnadrochit..have not a clue as to how to pronounce it. First meal of fish and chips and it is in Scotland..and not great. Back to Inverness and pack for the drive to Edinburgh.
Seems I put our search for Nessie in yesterday's tour..actually it was today.
One of the easy days when we don’t have to rush to get the bags out and head off to a new City. We do get on the ‘coach’, but this time to tour and back to the same hotel. Some of us are getting a bit weary, particularly those who are on their second tour. Many from Australia, New Zealand and some from the U.S.A. have already done a tour in Europe, the United States or western Canada. They are indeed a hardy bunch.
The weather holds up as we head off along the shores of Loch Maree to Inverewe Gardens. This is as far north as we go and we are at the same latitude as Labrador and Moscow. This explains the very long hours of daylight but not the vegetation, plants etc. we see in the gardens. There are plants from around the world, including Canadian pines, and subtropical plants that thrive because of the warm gulf stream. It is an interesting walk bordering the Sea and the only drawback are the small, biting insects, akin to sand fleas and black flies, that are attracted to the flowering plants and the sweet aroma. Guide Michael refers to them as “no-see-ums” a terms also used in Canada.
We drive back south along Loch Glascarnoch and stop for some scenic photos along the way at Loch Broon and the Loch Moor Valley. While we see a lot more open, rural land areas than expected it is pointed out that not an inch of Great Britain has not been lived upon, mined, or built upon over the centuries. The many expansive barren fields and hills, now populated everywhere with sheep, were once heavily forested, often with oak. Even the famous and blooming heather was actually planted during the Elizabethan times. There is a great deal of reforestation underway throughout Great Britain and Ireland. The roads are again extremely narrow and winding.
Our next stop is the Glen Ord distillery which I find extremely interesting. Emily, our young guide, is a local and working during a University break where she is studying opera singing in Glasgow. We follow the entire process to the end where the whiskey is stored in thousands of barrels. Only about 5% of the 200 million litres of alcohol produced is used for their single malt Glen Ord brand. The rest is used for blended whiskeys like Johnny Walker, or Baileys, gin etc. We see the barrels where the alcohol is stored in casks from Kentucky (bourbon barrels) or Spain (Sherry). After storage of 12 years the contents are ’married’ on a 50/50 basis to make their whiskey. The barrels are purchased in Kentucky and Spain, taken apart for shipping, and put reassembled by Coopers. They store the filled casks in over 50 sites across Great Britain. Apparently the coopers are paid by the cask and the record to reassemble a cask currently stands at about 7 & 1/2 minutes.
Back to the hotel and then many of us head off on an optional, but far from free, search by boat for Nessie, the famous Loch Ness monster. We start with an interesting museum visit where the history of Nessie sightings and scientific investigations are presented and then board boats to search for ourselves. Alas, no sightings. There is a myth that Saint Columba, one of Saint Patrick’s desciples, holds the record for the first sighting, and he drove the monster off with a crucifix (doesn’t just work for vampires). We dine at the local Nessie hotel, the Drumnadrochit..have not a clue as to how to pronounce it. First meal of fish and chips and it is in Scotland..and not great. Back to Inverness and pack for the drive to Edinburgh.
Sunday, July 12, 2009
Day 18 Thursday July 9th Isle of Skye and on to Inverness
Today we follow the ‘bonnie banks’ of Loch Lomond and enter the highlands, by Rannoch Moor, Glen Coe, Fort William and then the ‘road to the isles’ and ferry to the Isle of Skye. As we passed Loch Lomond (the largest lake in Scotland by surface area..Loch Ness is greater in terms of water volume) 24 miles long x 5 miles across, we were slightly detoured to miss the traffic heading for the start of the Scottish Open.
The day is sunny and we are into the hills, green, treed and rocky and we stop for photo shoot at Tarbet. Winding, narrow roads, mountainous, somewhat like foothills of large mountains, and there are the usual 3 sister mountains as in other countries. The temperature is now 13 degrees and there are small patches of snow in the higher hills. We stop briefly at Glencoe..where the McDonald/Campbell feud began with the murder of the Campbells. This is also where parts of some of the Harry Potter movies were filmed.
It gets more mountainous and we pass a ski hill..at 4406 feet the highest hill in Britain is noted.
At Fort William we see a statue of Bonnie Prince Charlie (not the last you will here of him) and take a picture of an aqueduct also found in a Potter film.
Off to Mallaig and board the ferry to the Isle of Skye. Only ourselves, fellow Canadian, Barbara, guide Michael and Australian representative, Don, brave the open deck for the crossing.
On the Isle we visit the Museum of the Isles at the Clan Donald Centre. The Isle of Skye is home to about 15,000 and receives some 120 inches of rain on average.
On the Isle we visit the Museum of the Isles at the Clan Donald Centre. The Isle of Skye is home to about 15,000 and receives some 120 inches of rain on average.
We board the Coach to leave the Isle and pass Loch Ness on our way the Highland capital, Inverness. Guide Michael has forewarned us that some Globus clients do not favour the Columba Hotel where we are to say, but to our surprise it proves to be a favourite for many of our group. Inverness proves to be an extremely pretty City with beautiful paths along both sides of the River Ness and many quaint and attractive houses and streets.
We enjoy the hotel and regret that we cannot stay yet another day here. It is a City that we would certainly recommend seeing.
This evening we are off for a boat cruise on Lake Ness and, while it is a clear day, there are no sighting. There is an interesting museum type presentation prior to the tour that gives a very complete of the history of Nessie sightings, scientific investigations, and the lake itself. Dinner follows at the local hotel and we have our first taste of fish and chips..albeit in Scotland.
On returning to the hotel we join a group in the hotel bar to once again discuss the “ashes” cricket thing. Attending are Jessica, ourselves, Cheryl and Graham, Trevor and Alma, Kevin and Julie, Gordon and Mitzi.
On returning to the hotel we join a group in the hotel bar to once again discuss the “ashes” cricket thing. Attending are Jessica, ourselves, Cheryl and Graham, Trevor and Alma, Kevin and Julie, Gordon and Mitzi.
Some more stuff…
..Scotland and Finland are the main suppliers of salmon for Europe, and use salmon farms which cause similar problems as in Canada when they escape and breed with the natural salmon.
..Someone named Munro climbed and mapped all of the higher hill/mountains in excess of 3000 feet, all 184 of them. Following in his footsteps (so to speak) are what are called “munro baggers” and out of the 5 million or so Scots almost 10% make claim to this title. As they climb each peak they check it off …referring to this practice as “bagging another one”.
..Scotland (859) is older than England (872).
..bobbies in England, peelers in Ireland, police in Northern Scotland.
..80,000 deer in Scotland..so far we have seen 2 (the royal ‘we’ as in not me personally but someone else on the bus). They cull 5,000 a year.
..Hunting is very expensive (1000 pounds a day for license) ; as is fishing which can cost 200 pounds per day;
..missed the name but the highest mountain in Great Britain is in Scotland and rises 4406 feet.
..conscription in Britain was only initiated for the wars and done away with in the early 60’s.
..the motto on the Scottish coat of arms, rampant lion on yellow background, translates into “nobody strikes me with impunity”.
..85% of Brits live in urban areas and the countryside of Scotland in particular is much more rural and uninhabited than I expected.
..Scotland is the main source of lobsters for Paris and, with the Finns, Salmon for all of Europe.
..Someone named Munro climbed and mapped all of the higher hill/mountains in excess of 3000 feet, all 184 of them. Following in his footsteps (so to speak) are what are called “munro baggers” and out of the 5 million or so Scots almost 10% make claim to this title. As they climb each peak they check it off …referring to this practice as “bagging another one”.
..Scotland (859) is older than England (872).
..bobbies in England, peelers in Ireland, police in Northern Scotland.
..80,000 deer in Scotland..so far we have seen 2 (the royal ‘we’ as in not me personally but someone else on the bus). They cull 5,000 a year.
..Hunting is very expensive (1000 pounds a day for license) ; as is fishing which can cost 200 pounds per day;
..missed the name but the highest mountain in Great Britain is in Scotland and rises 4406 feet.
..conscription in Britain was only initiated for the wars and done away with in the early 60’s.
..the motto on the Scottish coat of arms, rampant lion on yellow background, translates into “nobody strikes me with impunity”.
..85% of Brits live in urban areas and the countryside of Scotland in particular is much more rural and uninhabited than I expected.
..Scotland is the main source of lobsters for Paris and, with the Finns, Salmon for all of Europe.
Day 17 Wednesday July 8th On to Glasgow
Started off in a bit of rain and about 14 degrees (about 58 American) but it warmed up and cleared during the day. Passed by Blackpool which is still a favored holiday resort, picking up lately as the economy slumps and Spain and Portugal become a bit pricey. We start off on a major highway (British standards of course) initially flat and well treed, the lake district. We note a lot of Irish ‘Viking-Irish’ names as Vikings came over from Dublin to settle the area.
We pass impressive well constructed fieldstone walls..lot of sheep again.
Very popular holiday area with many hikers..you can tell the Brits - short pants, hiking boots and white legs…narrow road, lakes, trees, boats. Very impressed with the Village of Ambleside.
On through rambling hills and stop in Grasmere (grassy lake) and visit the graves of William Wordsworth and his family. There are two graves with a husband and wife team of Wordsworth so I point out the wrong one to a couple of tourists who promptly take a picture. Beautiful village with a stream running through it and we purchase some gingerbread (milder than in Canada but quite good).
Carboot sales are quite popular and similar to garage sales in Canada. The actual historical background for Tories and Whigs relates to Irish and Scottish horse thieves respectively.
Into Scotland at 1:30 pm through lowland hills, 5 million in Scotland.
Island has the shamrock, England the rose, Wales the Leak and Scotland, the thistle (defender of the nation). The story goes that the Vikings were attacking Scotland soldiers at night and took off their boots to sneak up at night. One Viking stepped on a thistle and cried out waking the Scots who repelled the attack. Thus the thistle (nice touch).
Some more infill….
..the Scots wear the Sporn (sp? Purse actually) to keep their kilts down and to keep their valuables. The English say that they are cheap, ie. Can’t get copper out of their Sporns.
..a croft is a small house and a crofter is a shepherd.
..Scots are famous for their inventions (not all invented in Scotland, but still invented by native Scots) which include: whiskey, tar, rubber (Dunlop), TV, telephone (Bell in Canada), penicillin, refrigerator, steam engine, golf, cloning (Dolly..apparently now stuffed and in museum) etc.
..no death sentence in Europe.
..no large RV’s and few RV camping spots and they are small and do not have the same services seen in North America.
..2nd Scot flag seen often is yellow with the rampant lion in honour of Robert the Bruce (more on him later).
..hotels rarely have ice machines but rooms are always fully equipped with iron/board, hair dryer, tea & coffee, good TV services.
..many of the younger hotel staff are from across all of Europe, so many different accents abound.
..national bird of Britain is the robin.
We stop at Gretna Green where Smithies marry runaway couples. Pictures of local cows are taken and this is the first chance to buy Scottish souvenirs and the troops go wild. Tams, scarves, St. Andrews golf stuff…and Estelle buys a tartan Viking type hat with horns..some great (read comical) photos taken.
We stop in Glasgow (means green place) which is 50/50 catholic/protestant and their big sport is celtic football with the catholics supporting the green/white Glasgow ?, and the protestants, the blue clad Glasgow Rangers.
We do a very quick driving tour of Glasgow viewing the 12th century cathedral, university buildings, St. George’s Square etc. before heading to the hotel, Glasgow Thistle which proves to withln walking distance of the centre of town. Anne and I head off into town as the offices empty and the streets are very busy. We find the Square and the statues of Victoria, Robbie Burns, and Walter Scott. Unfortunately the museum is closed as is the old lighthouse building famous for its interior architecture. We take a photo of the outside and head down to the river Clyde and follow it along back to the hotel. Again only pay as you go internet service and dinner is in a large two tiered dining area with three tour groups and the noise makes chatting a challenge (nice touch).
Glasgow is a busy city but well laid out on a grid system. It is known for its universities (Strathclyde and Glasgow), museums, concert halls and its Georgian squares. We pass the oldest building in Glasgow, the Provost (small but did get a photo from the ‘coach’).
Started off in a bit of rain and about 14 degrees (about 58 American) but it warmed up and cleared during the day. Passed by Blackpool which is still a favored holiday resort, picking up lately as the economy slumps and Spain and Portugal become a bit pricey. We start off on a major highway (British standards of course) initially flat and well treed, the lake district. We note a lot of Irish ‘Viking-Irish’ names as Vikings came over from Dublin to settle the area.
We pass impressive well constructed fieldstone walls..lot of sheep again.
Very popular holiday area with many hikers..you can tell the Brits - short pants, hiking boots and white legs…narrow road, lakes, trees, boats. Very impressed with the Village of Ambleside.
On through rambling hills and stop in Grasmere (grassy lake) and visit the graves of William Wordsworth and his family. There are two graves with a husband and wife team of Wordsworth so I point out the wrong one to a couple of tourists who promptly take a picture. Beautiful village with a stream running through it and we purchase some gingerbread (milder than in Canada but quite good).
Carboot sales are quite popular and similar to garage sales in Canada. The actual historical background for Tories and Whigs relates to Irish and Scottish horse thieves respectively.
Into Scotland at 1:30 pm through lowland hills, 5 million in Scotland.
Island has the shamrock, England the rose, Wales the Leak and Scotland, the thistle (defender of the nation). The story goes that the Vikings were attacking Scotland soldiers at night and took off their boots to sneak up at night. One Viking stepped on a thistle and cried out waking the Scots who repelled the attack. Thus the thistle (nice touch).
Some more infill….
..the Scots wear the Sporn (sp? Purse actually) to keep their kilts down and to keep their valuables. The English say that they are cheap, ie. Can’t get copper out of their Sporns.
..a croft is a small house and a crofter is a shepherd.
..Scots are famous for their inventions (not all invented in Scotland, but still invented by native Scots) which include: whiskey, tar, rubber (Dunlop), TV, telephone (Bell in Canada), penicillin, refrigerator, steam engine, golf, cloning (Dolly..apparently now stuffed and in museum) etc.
..no death sentence in Europe.
..no large RV’s and few RV camping spots and they are small and do not have the same services seen in North America.
..2nd Scot flag seen often is yellow with the rampant lion in honour of Robert the Bruce (more on him later).
..hotels rarely have ice machines but rooms are always fully equipped with iron/board, hair dryer, tea & coffee, good TV services.
..many of the younger hotel staff are from across all of Europe, so many different accents abound.
..national bird of Britain is the robin.
We stop at Gretna Green where Smithies marry runaway couples. Pictures of local cows are taken and this is the first chance to buy Scottish souvenirs and the troops go wild. Tams, scarves, St. Andrews golf stuff…and Estelle buys a tartan Viking type hat with horns..some great (read comical) photos taken.
We stop in Glasgow (means green place) which is 50/50 catholic/protestant and their big sport is celtic football with the catholics supporting the green/white Glasgow ?, and the protestants, the blue clad Glasgow Rangers.
We do a very quick driving tour of Glasgow viewing the 12th century cathedral, university buildings, St. George’s Square etc. before heading to the hotel, Glasgow Thistle which proves to withln walking distance of the centre of town. Anne and I head off into town as the offices empty and the streets are very busy. We find the Square and the statues of Victoria, Robbie Burns, and Walter Scott. Unfortunately the museum is closed as is the old lighthouse building famous for its interior architecture. We take a photo of the outside and head down to the river Clyde and follow it along back to the hotel. Again only pay as you go internet service and dinner is in a large two tiered dining area with three tour groups and the noise makes chatting a challenge (nice touch).
Glasgow is a busy city but well laid out on a grid system. It is known for its universities (Strathclyde and Glasgow), museums, concert halls and its Georgian squares. We pass the oldest building in Glasgow, the Provost (small but did get a photo from the ‘coach’).
Saturday, July 11, 2009
Monday and Tuesday, July 6,7
Sorry for the delay..trouble with access or C)ST...and still no pictures..to come..
Day 15 Monday July 6th Dublin and Guinness Brewery
Finally a day with almost no fixed agenda and nothing planned before 9:30 am. We start with a quick orientation bus tour of the centre of Dublin, the capital city on a bright and sunny day. We are dropped off at Trinity College Library, home of the famous Book of Kells, “turning darkness into light”, a lavishly decorated copy, in latin, of the four gospels, produced early in the 9th century by the monks of Iona. It survived the attacks of the Vikings, the real settlers of Ireland (it is suggested that all of British, Scot and Irish ancestry carry Viking blood in their genes) buried in the bog and given to Trinity College in 1661. Unlike other such treasure in museums around the world it is quite accessible for viewing and very well preserved. The library, unfortunately no picture allowed) is located in a large 3 tiered building housing hundreds of thousands of old books and well worth the visit.
We then tour Dublin on foot seeing many statues of note including that of Daniel O’Connell himself at the foot of O’Connell street. Other sites include St. Patrick’s Cathedral (Church of Ireland..the catholic cathedral of the same name is in New York City). Jonathan Swift was once Dean of the cathedral but was ousted by the elite who worshipped there due to his affiliation with the less fortunate and tendency to berate the rich and famous during his sermons. He went on to pen “Gulliver’s Travels” which is actually a parody of his experience with his detractors and their way of life.
Other interesting sites include the splendour of the the doors of the Georgian homes that once housed the wealthy and were designed as to differentiate the home from the many identical houses. The major post office in Ireland is located here and proved quite historic with bullet pock marks on the stone columns and housing welfare offices and other government services. We buy one stamp.
Captain Bligh of the Bounty relocated to Bounty as a civil engineer where he transformed the wide river Liffey running through the centre of Dublin into a navigable canal and rebuilt the harbour.
There is a remarkable statue of Molly Malone and her cart..lovingly referred to in Dublin as the “tart with the cart”. This is the site where the thousands of starving families were sent off during the “hunger” to other lands..including the United States and Canada. There are remarkable bronze statues depicting the victims with plaques that include one laid by Jean Chretien, former prime minister of Canada. There is also a working ship that is a copy of one of the aptly named “coffin” ships that transported the emigrants.
We finished the day with a tour of the immense Guinness Brewery, one of the tallest structures in Dublin with a bar at the top in a glass enclosed area with a panoramic view of the city. We are given a private tour and dinner (a rare event and almost exclusive to Globus) in a separate dining area, many tasting their first Guinness. It is well worth the visit but I did not find it as interesting or as entertaining as the tour of the Keith’s Brewery in Halifax. Good time was held by all and I make my first purchases..a rugby shirt and fancy boxers with the Guinness name of course.
Back to the hotel and a nightcap with Cheryl and Graham, Jessica, and Kevin and Julie before heading off to our rooms in anticipation of our earliest departure yet in order to make the ferry.
Day 16 Tuesday July 7th - Back to Wales
Early morning start to make the ferry and an easy crossing of about 3 hours from Dun Laoghaire to Holyhead on the Welsh Isle of Anglesey. This Isle was used as a training base for the US army air force during the 2nd world war and still in use for RAF training. The Romans called it Mona and it was the last bastion of the Druids. Holyhead is apparently named after a Druid God
A quick stop for a chance to get out passports stamped at the longest welsh name for a place …Llanfairwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch…
translated into English as….“The church of Mary in the hollow of the white hazel near the fierce whirlpool and the church of Tysilio by the red cave.”
translated into English as….“The church of Mary in the hollow of the white hazel near the fierce whirlpool and the church of Tysilio by the red cave.”
Humour insert…forgot this earlier..while we were touring Trinity College and looking at the Book of Kells there was quite a bit about the scribes who copied the various books of the bible. Marty (a fellow traveller) told us about the most serious error ever made in copying history. The scribe was copying a section dealing with the required practices of monks and priests and left the “r” out of “celebrate”. He apparently always had the longest and most difficult penances after each confession.
We pass through Cotswold, a scenic village (but can’t stop) with old stone lanes, shops along the road and it is the home of the anscestors of Thomas Jefferson. There are 3 million in Wales and 17 million sheep…so plenty of sheep seen. The south of wales is industrial but the north is wooded, rural and mountainous..very scenic. There are also over 2000 castles and 671 are still lived in today.
Numbers of stand alone columns are seen across Britain and about 60% of them honour the Duke of Wellington and those who died at the Battle of Waterloo (1815). The Duke owns a great deal of Britain including most of London and is one of the richest men in Britain. The US embassy in London is the only one in the world not owned by the US, but is rented from the Duke who refused to sell it.
Britain is named after the Roman name Britannia which meant “blue painte man”. Apparently in the diaries of Julius Caesar (worth reading I am told) he was apprehensive about getting off the ship to attack the hordes of blue painted, screaming warriors. The story says that only when the standard bearer led the way would the others follow.
In Britain all cars have logs which must be kept up and each year require a road worthiness test at garages set up for this purpose. The price is $200 pounds and heavy fines for those without the annual sticker on the windshield.
If a British male marries a foreigner then she is automatically British. However, the reverse is not true. Also, if you can get into Britain (apparently easy) and evade the authorities for 5 years you become automatically eligible for citizenship.
Trainspotters are quite common in Britain and they often can be seen at stations with their log books noting the various engines as they pass by..somewhat like bird watchers. They also raise funds and buy old tracks and engines and restore them.
While it is a dull, grey day the scenery is among the most spectacular yet. Early on there is pink fireweed (Rosebay willow herb sp?) along both sides of the highway. The land is mountainous with fast moving streams and rapids, valleys and trees along winding roads and abandoned slate quarries. The trip through Snowdonia National Park over Llanberis Pass is spectacular. There are many hikers and campsites and it is a popular place for hiking and rock climbing.
We pass through Betws-y-Coed and stop at Llangollen, home of an annual international contest for poets and musicians. Paverotti spent a year here when he was 16 and came back often over the years. We are here the day of the annual parade and leave just before it is to begin, a good thing since the small, scenic town is very crowded.
We head into Chester, “the walled city” wher the roman wall still exist. It is on the river Dee and home of the wealthy Duke himself. Chester is an international heritage city. The city is the focus of tourism and visiting for the local, larger cities nearby, and noted fo the roman ruins, cable streets, cathedral, black and white half-timbered buildings and the two-tiered shopping arcades called “the rows.” We are here for about an hour and a half before heading to the hotel.
The hotel is bout 20 minutes outside of Chester and a smaller two story motel type structure in a commercial area called the St. Davids Park Hotel . It is busy with a conference. The rooms are ok but the food is the worse so far and the conference delegates have a late BBQ with a band playing in the courtyard. One good aspect of the place, however, is that the internet works! Not a recommended place to stay.
Trainspotters are quite common in Britain and they often can be seen at stations with their log books noting the various engines as they pass by..somewhat like bird watchers. They also raise funds and buy old tracks and engines and restore them.
While it is a dull, grey day the scenery is among the most spectacular yet. Early on there is pink fireweed (Rosebay willow herb sp?) along both sides of the highway. The land is mountainous with fast moving streams and rapids, valleys and trees along winding roads and abandoned slate quarries. The trip through Snowdonia National Park over Llanberis Pass is spectacular. There are many hikers and campsites and it is a popular place for hiking and rock climbing.
We pass through Betws-y-Coed and stop at Llangollen, home of an annual international contest for poets and musicians. Paverotti spent a year here when he was 16 and came back often over the years. We are here the day of the annual parade and leave just before it is to begin, a good thing since the small, scenic town is very crowded.
We head into Chester, “the walled city” wher the roman wall still exist. It is on the river Dee and home of the wealthy Duke himself. Chester is an international heritage city. The city is the focus of tourism and visiting for the local, larger cities nearby, and noted fo the roman ruins, cable streets, cathedral, black and white half-timbered buildings and the two-tiered shopping arcades called “the rows.” We are here for about an hour and a half before heading to the hotel.
The hotel is bout 20 minutes outside of Chester and a smaller two story motel type structure in a commercial area called the St. Davids Park Hotel . It is busy with a conference. The rooms are ok but the food is the worse so far and the conference delegates have a late BBQ with a band playing in the courtyard. One good aspect of the place, however, is that the internet works! Not a recommended place to stay.
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
The Rest of Ireland to Monday July 6
This is a long one..no pictures again..hold on
Day 12 Friday July 3rd Cliffs of Moher, Gallway and Sligo
While this trip takes us through Galway, the region made famous for the filming of the Quiet Man (John Wayne and Maureen O’hara), and the village of Knock (where the shrine attracts village from all over the world) the most interesting part was the visit to the spectacular Cliffs of Moher which rise 668 feet above the Atlantic. The day cleared as we arrived and we were able to follow the various paths along the cliffs and take some great (I trust..) photos.
We then continued on to Sligo and another Clarion Hotel where once again I fail the internet test.
Day 13 Saturday July 4th Into Ulster and Belfast
On the bus again we have an interesting day stopping in Drumcliff to see the grave of W.B. Yeats, and visit the Belleek Pottery Factory (home of the cream colored Parian china…Anne buys a cup). We stop for lunch in Derry (Londonderry), walk the walls of this “walled” city, viewing the catholic areas and the murals depicting the “troubles”. Our guide, Michael is not keen on giving us a history of the troubled times as there are still mixed feelings held by many as to the interpretation of the events. One person does listen in at one point, however, and shakes her head, and lets it be known to all that Michael is lying to us.
The highlight of the day is a hike along the awe inspiring Giant’s Causeway (again a myth exists explaining the origin as being the result of an almost altercation between an Irish and a Scottish giant) composed of thousands of strangely symmetrical basalt columns jutting out to sea. Anne and I walk the entire area..down and back up and just make it back in time to make the coach (Irish for bus). Hopefully some of the photos turn out ok.
It is then on to Belfast where we again stay at a Hilton and face their $15 euro internet fee..and resist once more.
Day 14 Sunday July 5th Belfast tour, St. Paddi’s Grave and Dublin
Belfast proves to be a fascinating city and it is unfortunate that we were unable to stay another day. We do, however, enjoy a great bus tour with a local guide before heading off to Dublin.
Some interesting info..
The titantic memorial commemorating the building of the titantic..the locals claim that it was fine when it left and that lifeboats were removed to make more room for the elite passenger deck.
The existence of a ferris wheel similar to the London Eye.
The claim of being the home of country music.
Lots of construction and the largest dry dock in the world now refitting and rebuilding ships instead of building new
Home of Queen’s Universty and 24,000 students;
2nd most popular port after Barcelona;
Largest film studion in the world.
Home of the famous Royal Victoria Hospital where among other things the defibrillator was invented (they claim they had to since they are second only to the Scots for being the least healthy people).
It has the same latitude s the south of Hudson Bay but a much more temperate climate.
The Northern Ireland Assembly buildings are impressive and sit back a mile, along a paved route from the main street.
With a population of only 1.8 million, northern Ireland has a staggering 108 politicians.
In 2006 housing values increased 54% and this year have fallen almost as much.
Unemployment is about 9% today.
They brought some Canadians over and now have the most watched and followed hockey team in Europe, the Belfast Giants.
The tour guide is careful to explain how much things have changed as we witness English, catholic and protestant areas, many murals depicting the fighting, and the multitude of flags from all sides and particularly the presence of the Union Jack.
One notable painting is of Bobby Sands, the first of 10 to die (May, 1981) after a hunger strike lasting 27-66 days. The visit brings home the reality of the times and the change. Of note is the fact that during the “troubles” Belfast had the lowest crime rate in Europe and it is higher today than it was then.
We then headed off to Dublin, following the shores of Strangford Lough and stopped in Downpatrick and to view the grave of Saint Patrick and the Down (Holy Trinity) Cathedral.
Arriving in Dublin we again stay at the Clarion and once again I am unable to use the internet effectively. This evening we head off to a dinner and night of Irish dancing and song from a great group and entertained by an Irish comedian of note who regales us with Murphy jokes.
Day 15 Monday July 6th Dublin and Guinness Brewery
Finally a day with almost no fixed agenda and nothing planned before 9:30 am. We start with a quick orientation bus tour of the centre of Dublin, the capital city on a bright and sunny day. We are dropped off at Trinity College Library, home of the famous Book of Kells, “turning darkness into light”, a lavishly decorated copy, in latin, of the four gospels, produced early in the 9th century by the monks of Iona. It survived the attacks of the Vikings, the real settlers of Ireland (it is suggested that all of British, Scot and Irish ancestry carry Viking blood in their genes) buried in the bog and given to Trinity College in 1661. Unlike other such treasure in museums around the world it is quite accessible for viewing and very well preserved. The library, unfortunately no picture allowed) is located in a large 3 tiered building housing hundreds of thousands of old books and well worth the visit.
We then tour Dublin on foot seeing many statues of note including that of Daniel O’Connell himself at the foot of O’Connell street. Other sites include St. Patrick’s Cathedral (Church of Ireland..the catholic cathedral of the same name is in New York City). Jonathan Swift was once Dean of the cathedral but was ousted by the elite, who worshipped there, due to his affiliation with the less fortunate and tendency to berate the rich and famous during his sermons. He went on to pen “Gulliver’s Travels” which is actually a parody of his experience with his detractors and their way of life.
Other interesting sites include the splendour of the the doors of the Georgian homes that once housed the wealthy and were designed as to differentiate the home from the many identical houses. The major post office in Ireland is located here and proved quite historic with bullet pock marks on the stone columns and housing welfare offices and other government services. We buy one stamp.
Captain Bligh of the Bounty relocated to Bounty as a civil engineer where he transformed the wide river Liffey running through the centre of Dublin into a navigable canal and rebuilt the harbour.
There is a remarkable statue of Molly Malone and her cart..lovingly referred to in Dublin as the “tart with the cart”. This is the site where the thousands of starving families were sent off during the “hunger” to other lands..including the United States and Canada. There are remarkable bronze statues depicting the victims with plaques that include one laid by Jean Chretien, former prime minister of Canada. There is also a working ship that is a copy of one of the aptly named “coffin” ships that transported the emigrants.
We finished the day with a tour of the immense Guinness Brewery, one of the tallest structures in Dublin with a bar at the top in a glass enclosed area with a panoramic view of the city. We are given a private tour and dinner (a rare event and almost exclusive to Globus) in a separate dining area, many tasting their first Guinness. It is well worth the visit but I did not find it as interesting or as entertaining as the tour of the Keith’s Brewery in Halifax. Good time was held by all and I make my first purchases..a rugby shirt and fancy boxers with the Guinness name of course.
Back to the hotel and a nightcap with Cheryl and Graham, Jessica, and Kevin and Julie before heading off to our rooms in anticipation of our earliest departure yet in order to make the ferry.
Day 12 Friday July 3rd Cliffs of Moher, Gallway and Sligo
While this trip takes us through Galway, the region made famous for the filming of the Quiet Man (John Wayne and Maureen O’hara), and the village of Knock (where the shrine attracts village from all over the world) the most interesting part was the visit to the spectacular Cliffs of Moher which rise 668 feet above the Atlantic. The day cleared as we arrived and we were able to follow the various paths along the cliffs and take some great (I trust..) photos.
We then continued on to Sligo and another Clarion Hotel where once again I fail the internet test.
Day 13 Saturday July 4th Into Ulster and Belfast
On the bus again we have an interesting day stopping in Drumcliff to see the grave of W.B. Yeats, and visit the Belleek Pottery Factory (home of the cream colored Parian china…Anne buys a cup). We stop for lunch in Derry (Londonderry), walk the walls of this “walled” city, viewing the catholic areas and the murals depicting the “troubles”. Our guide, Michael is not keen on giving us a history of the troubled times as there are still mixed feelings held by many as to the interpretation of the events. One person does listen in at one point, however, and shakes her head, and lets it be known to all that Michael is lying to us.
The highlight of the day is a hike along the awe inspiring Giant’s Causeway (again a myth exists explaining the origin as being the result of an almost altercation between an Irish and a Scottish giant) composed of thousands of strangely symmetrical basalt columns jutting out to sea. Anne and I walk the entire area..down and back up and just make it back in time to make the coach (Irish for bus). Hopefully some of the photos turn out ok.
It is then on to Belfast where we again stay at a Hilton and face their $15 euro internet fee..and resist once more.
Day 14 Sunday July 5th Belfast tour, St. Paddi’s Grave and Dublin
Belfast proves to be a fascinating city and it is unfortunate that we were unable to stay another day. We do, however, enjoy a great bus tour with a local guide before heading off to Dublin.
Some interesting info..
The titantic memorial commemorating the building of the titantic..the locals claim that it was fine when it left and that lifeboats were removed to make more room for the elite passenger deck.
The existence of a ferris wheel similar to the London Eye.
The claim of being the home of country music.
Lots of construction and the largest dry dock in the world now refitting and rebuilding ships instead of building new
Home of Queen’s Universty and 24,000 students;
2nd most popular port after Barcelona;
Largest film studion in the world.
Home of the famous Royal Victoria Hospital where among other things the defibrillator was invented (they claim they had to since they are second only to the Scots for being the least healthy people).
It has the same latitude s the south of Hudson Bay but a much more temperate climate.
The Northern Ireland Assembly buildings are impressive and sit back a mile, along a paved route from the main street.
With a population of only 1.8 million, northern Ireland has a staggering 108 politicians.
In 2006 housing values increased 54% and this year have fallen almost as much.
Unemployment is about 9% today.
They brought some Canadians over and now have the most watched and followed hockey team in Europe, the Belfast Giants.
The tour guide is careful to explain how much things have changed as we witness English, catholic and protestant areas, many murals depicting the fighting, and the multitude of flags from all sides and particularly the presence of the Union Jack.
One notable painting is of Bobby Sands, the first of 10 to die (May, 1981) after a hunger strike lasting 27-66 days. The visit brings home the reality of the times and the change. Of note is the fact that during the “troubles” Belfast had the lowest crime rate in Europe and it is higher today than it was then.
We then headed off to Dublin, following the shores of Strangford Lough and stopped in Downpatrick and to view the grave of Saint Patrick and the Down (Holy Trinity) Cathedral.
Arriving in Dublin we again stay at the Clarion and once again I am unable to use the internet effectively. This evening we head off to a dinner and night of Irish dancing and song from a great group and entertained by an Irish comedian of note who regales us with Murphy jokes.
Day 15 Monday July 6th Dublin and Guinness Brewery
Finally a day with almost no fixed agenda and nothing planned before 9:30 am. We start with a quick orientation bus tour of the centre of Dublin, the capital city on a bright and sunny day. We are dropped off at Trinity College Library, home of the famous Book of Kells, “turning darkness into light”, a lavishly decorated copy, in latin, of the four gospels, produced early in the 9th century by the monks of Iona. It survived the attacks of the Vikings, the real settlers of Ireland (it is suggested that all of British, Scot and Irish ancestry carry Viking blood in their genes) buried in the bog and given to Trinity College in 1661. Unlike other such treasure in museums around the world it is quite accessible for viewing and very well preserved. The library, unfortunately no picture allowed) is located in a large 3 tiered building housing hundreds of thousands of old books and well worth the visit.
We then tour Dublin on foot seeing many statues of note including that of Daniel O’Connell himself at the foot of O’Connell street. Other sites include St. Patrick’s Cathedral (Church of Ireland..the catholic cathedral of the same name is in New York City). Jonathan Swift was once Dean of the cathedral but was ousted by the elite, who worshipped there, due to his affiliation with the less fortunate and tendency to berate the rich and famous during his sermons. He went on to pen “Gulliver’s Travels” which is actually a parody of his experience with his detractors and their way of life.
Other interesting sites include the splendour of the the doors of the Georgian homes that once housed the wealthy and were designed as to differentiate the home from the many identical houses. The major post office in Ireland is located here and proved quite historic with bullet pock marks on the stone columns and housing welfare offices and other government services. We buy one stamp.
Captain Bligh of the Bounty relocated to Bounty as a civil engineer where he transformed the wide river Liffey running through the centre of Dublin into a navigable canal and rebuilt the harbour.
There is a remarkable statue of Molly Malone and her cart..lovingly referred to in Dublin as the “tart with the cart”. This is the site where the thousands of starving families were sent off during the “hunger” to other lands..including the United States and Canada. There are remarkable bronze statues depicting the victims with plaques that include one laid by Jean Chretien, former prime minister of Canada. There is also a working ship that is a copy of one of the aptly named “coffin” ships that transported the emigrants.
We finished the day with a tour of the immense Guinness Brewery, one of the tallest structures in Dublin with a bar at the top in a glass enclosed area with a panoramic view of the city. We are given a private tour and dinner (a rare event and almost exclusive to Globus) in a separate dining area, many tasting their first Guinness. It is well worth the visit but I did not find it as interesting or as entertaining as the tour of the Keith’s Brewery in Halifax. Good time was held by all and I make my first purchases..a rugby shirt and fancy boxers with the Guinness name of course.
Back to the hotel and a nightcap with Cheryl and Graham, Jessica, and Kevin and Julie before heading off to our rooms in anticipation of our earliest departure yet in order to make the ferry.
Thursday July 2nd Killarney to Limerick
Sorry ... Still no Pictures
Day 11 Thursday, July 2nd - Off to Limerick
We head for Limerick via the Dingle Peninsula (and the place where Ryan’s Daughter was filmed).and a 32 mile Slea Head drive with some magnificent Atlantic Ocean views. This is the most western part of Ireland, and indeed, Europe.
On the way out of Killarney we note the town of Castlemain..famous as the home of Jack Duggan, “the wild colonial boy”.
We stop at the Blasket Islands Centre and here of the sad history of the offshore Islands, now vacant but once the home of the only true Gaelic or Irish and where many scholars went to learn the language. The islands were finally evacuated in 1953. A number of books have been written about the area and Anne notes the author, Judith Cook (the Pirate Queen) for future reference.
We stop for lunch in Adare and finally able to see and take some pictures of thatched cottages.
The N20 is very busy as we head on to Limerick. We see a number of small camper trailers at various points along the way. They are the remaining “Tinkers” or travellers (not to be confused with Gypsies). They have a centre in Rath Keale, known as the tinker village and it is said that the vans they keep there are mostly used for the storage of the goods they use for trade as they travel around the country.
We arrive in Limerick on the river Shannon to stay at the Clarion Hotel. Limerick is the closest I see that reminds me of small Canadian cities and even note a Ricoh office. Again it is noted that the main street (as in all cities we are told) is named after Daniel O’Connell.
The evening has many of us off to a former castle where we are treated to a medieval banquet. I and two others along with our “Queens” are chosen to sit at the head, raised table. The 3 kings, Dick (USA), Graham (Australia) and myself are given crowns and robes…however, after the ceremony, the crowns are given to the 3 Queens for keeping, Bonnie, Jennifer and Anne, respectively.
A few more “questionable” facts..and a few observations:
The potato famine is referred to as the “hunger” - 1847-1857, and the more recent problems re: IRA, Ulster, England etc. are referred to as the “troubles”.
King Brian Buru (sp?) is the only king to have ever ruled all of Ireland.
Ross means peninsula in the south and forest in the north.
Gas prices in Canadian dollars range from about $1.75 to $1.92 per litre.
The various pieces of art commissioned along the highways are referred to as “art attacks”.
The Irish orange, green and white striped flag represents the peace between the orange (protestant) and green (catholic).
Politicians are compared to bananas..start of green, soon become rotten, crooked and come in bunches.
Stamps in Ireland cannot be used in Britain or Ulster and change cannot be converted from sterling to dollars at banks…it is suggested we spend our remaining change and euro notes on the ferry back to Wales. There are numerous pound notes (all transferable sterling notes) printed in Ulster, Scotland and England with different printing, pictures and colours.
House prices in Ireland have fallen 20% but still average 263 euros ($450k Canadian) with a high of 475 euros ($807k Canadian).
Day 11 Thursday, July 2nd - Off to Limerick
We head for Limerick via the Dingle Peninsula (and the place where Ryan’s Daughter was filmed).and a 32 mile Slea Head drive with some magnificent Atlantic Ocean views. This is the most western part of Ireland, and indeed, Europe.
On the way out of Killarney we note the town of Castlemain..famous as the home of Jack Duggan, “the wild colonial boy”.
We stop at the Blasket Islands Centre and here of the sad history of the offshore Islands, now vacant but once the home of the only true Gaelic or Irish and where many scholars went to learn the language. The islands were finally evacuated in 1953. A number of books have been written about the area and Anne notes the author, Judith Cook (the Pirate Queen) for future reference.
We stop for lunch in Adare and finally able to see and take some pictures of thatched cottages.
The N20 is very busy as we head on to Limerick. We see a number of small camper trailers at various points along the way. They are the remaining “Tinkers” or travellers (not to be confused with Gypsies). They have a centre in Rath Keale, known as the tinker village and it is said that the vans they keep there are mostly used for the storage of the goods they use for trade as they travel around the country.
We arrive in Limerick on the river Shannon to stay at the Clarion Hotel. Limerick is the closest I see that reminds me of small Canadian cities and even note a Ricoh office. Again it is noted that the main street (as in all cities we are told) is named after Daniel O’Connell.
The evening has many of us off to a former castle where we are treated to a medieval banquet. I and two others along with our “Queens” are chosen to sit at the head, raised table. The 3 kings, Dick (USA), Graham (Australia) and myself are given crowns and robes…however, after the ceremony, the crowns are given to the 3 Queens for keeping, Bonnie, Jennifer and Anne, respectively.
A few more “questionable” facts..and a few observations:
The potato famine is referred to as the “hunger” - 1847-1857, and the more recent problems re: IRA, Ulster, England etc. are referred to as the “troubles”.
King Brian Buru (sp?) is the only king to have ever ruled all of Ireland.
Ross means peninsula in the south and forest in the north.
Gas prices in Canadian dollars range from about $1.75 to $1.92 per litre.
The various pieces of art commissioned along the highways are referred to as “art attacks”.
The Irish orange, green and white striped flag represents the peace between the orange (protestant) and green (catholic).
Politicians are compared to bananas..start of green, soon become rotten, crooked and come in bunches.
Stamps in Ireland cannot be used in Britain or Ulster and change cannot be converted from sterling to dollars at banks…it is suggested we spend our remaining change and euro notes on the ferry back to Wales. There are numerous pound notes (all transferable sterling notes) printed in Ulster, Scotland and England with different printing, pictures and colours.
House prices in Ireland have fallen 20% but still average 263 euros ($450k Canadian) with a high of 475 euros ($807k Canadian).
Canada Day Saturday July 1
Still having internet troubles and downloading pictures..will keep trying..
Day 10 Wednesday July 1st CANADA DAY Killarney 2
Canada Day starts with “happy birthday” cheer from the rest of the crowd on the bus. The day is then spent on the bus touring to Killorglin on Dingle Bay and then a 100 mile drive around the island’s southwestern tip.
We see a lot of demolished castles, farms etc. dating back to the reviled Cromwell. Killorglin is interesting where they annually crown King Puck..a goat. This dates back to Cromwell when each farm had a special colored scarf which they (a story of course..not according to the locals) tied to the goat’s horns and like the homing pigeon it would head to Killorglin when let loose. This would inform the town as to where Cromwell and his army were located and allow the farm and townspeople to flee in another direction.
We noted peat farms and piles of peat, cut in bricks, and used instead of coal for heat.
We see the now dilapidated former home of the hero, Daniel O’Connell and note the number of new homes along the route. We also are shown “cahersiveen” where the leprecahns meet but do not spy any of the little people. Very small farms with lots of sheep and cows. They form coops to sell the milk which is driven every morning in private cars to the dairy centre. The Ring of Kerry follows a scenic but very narrow road and it is a long drive. Rolling, mountainous hills, rock and trees are sparse.
The evening sees many of us back on the bus and off to Tralee where we dine and then off next door to the restaurant to the National Folk Theatre where we see a musical production celebrating the four seasons of a small farming community. Very entertaining with singing and the traditional step dancing. All in Gaelic but easy to follow the script.
Day 10 Wednesday July 1st CANADA DAY Killarney 2
Canada Day starts with “happy birthday” cheer from the rest of the crowd on the bus. The day is then spent on the bus touring to Killorglin on Dingle Bay and then a 100 mile drive around the island’s southwestern tip.
We see a lot of demolished castles, farms etc. dating back to the reviled Cromwell. Killorglin is interesting where they annually crown King Puck..a goat. This dates back to Cromwell when each farm had a special colored scarf which they (a story of course..not according to the locals) tied to the goat’s horns and like the homing pigeon it would head to Killorglin when let loose. This would inform the town as to where Cromwell and his army were located and allow the farm and townspeople to flee in another direction.
We noted peat farms and piles of peat, cut in bricks, and used instead of coal for heat.
We see the now dilapidated former home of the hero, Daniel O’Connell and note the number of new homes along the route. We also are shown “cahersiveen” where the leprecahns meet but do not spy any of the little people. Very small farms with lots of sheep and cows. They form coops to sell the milk which is driven every morning in private cars to the dairy centre. The Ring of Kerry follows a scenic but very narrow road and it is a long drive. Rolling, mountainous hills, rock and trees are sparse.
The evening sees many of us back on the bus and off to Tralee where we dine and then off next door to the restaurant to the National Folk Theatre where we see a musical production celebrating the four seasons of a small farming community. Very entertaining with singing and the traditional step dancing. All in Gaelic but easy to follow the script.
Wednesday, July 1, 2009
Up to Canada Day
Guide Michael Benoit
Cheryl and an Irish Weaver
Nicole and Gabrielle
Irish Red Deer
Irish fisherman
Muchross House
Princess Kareen and new friend Mick
Anne and new friend Jimmy
Globus tour boat
Safe on land
World's first suspension bridgeLands End..Can't go any further west
Friar Garry
Coach Driver Anne
Day 8 Monday June 29 - off to Killarney
The tour originally included a visit to the Waterford Crystal Factory but it is now shut down and the tour replaced by a walking tour of Waterford with a very good local guide, “Jack”.
We pass through the port city of Cork which has two towns on either side of the harbour, Hook and Crook. When Cromwell invaded (one of most hated persons ever in Ireland) he was asked which way he was going to attack and he replied..by Hook or by Crook (so we were told!).
We first stop at Blarney, renowned for its magical Stone of Eloquence, the Blarney Stone. Here, some of us visit the castle, climb the circular, winding stone steps inside to the top and then, with the help of another “Jack” (who, apparently has been doing this for years), bend over backwards, lean back over the castle walls, and kiss the stone. Apparently, we now have the famous blarney, or gift of gab. The castle itself is quite striking and set in a park like setting on a hill. We are here for about 2 hours and have time to visit the woolen mills and have lunch.
It is then back on the coach and through the Cork and Kerry mountains to Killarney, our Kerry base (land of the Kerrymen..many of whom seem to be named Murphy) for the next three nights.
Some of the group take the optional pub visit (and all seemed to enjoy it) while the rest of us head to the hotel. The hotel, “Scotts Hotel”, is very modern and proves to be one of the best so far. Our room on the third floor, opens onto a streetside balcony with access from other rooms on the floor. Unfortunately, no internet access.
After dinner we head off with 4 Australians (Kevin and Julie, and Jessica and Margaret) to a nearby pub, the Danny Mann for an evening of Irish music performed by a fiddler and singer-guitar player. I have a guiness and finally get the chance to sing along, to my own amusement, of course.
After dinner we head off with 4 Australians (Kevin and Julie, and Jessica and Margaret) to a nearby pub, the Danny Mann for an evening of Irish music performed by a fiddler and singer-guitar player. I have a guiness and finally get the chance to sing along, to my own amusement, of course.
Day 9 Tuesday June 30 Killarney
The Group…we have finally met and spoken with all of our fellow travellers and the 44 of us include driver and guide, 3 Canadians, 4 New Zealanders, 10 Americans and 25 Australians.
Driver Bob from Sheffield, and guide, Michael Benoit from London;
New Zealanders, Trevor and Alma, and Pat and Ellen;
Canadians, Anne and Garry, Ottawa, and Barbara from Toronto
Americans, Estelle and Marty (San Diego), Dick and Bonnie (Arkansas), John and Gloria (Pennsylvania), Ken and Gale (Florida and Illinois) and Roger and Susan (Maryland);
Australians, Graham and Cheryl, Margaret and her granddaughter, Jessica, Kevin and Julie, Corinne and Sonia, Gordon and Mitzi, sisters Gabrielle and Nicole, Don and Allison, Graham and Jennifer, Betty and Fay, Lu and Yy, sisters Rita and Helen, and Joan, Janine and Marj.
Finally, after a late breakfast, we leave by pony and cart to Killarney National Park. This is our first day of rain and fortunately it is light and not steady and the day is warm. I do get to don my bright yellow rain hat straight from Newfoundland which I am told makes me look like a fireman. We luck out, getting a cart and pony (Jimmy) driven by one of the old hands, “Mick” who has fun teasing the ladies in our group which consists of Anne and I, John and Gloria from Maryland, and Australians, Corinne and Sonia. Corinne and Anne seem to be his main targets and Anne is called “Ducky-duck” and Corinne, “Princess”. The ride is quite enjoyable and when we arrive at the ruins of Ross Castle we board open boats about 20 feet in length, sturdy and holding about 12 per boat. The boatmen again are locals, and very knowledgeable about the area with the usual Irish humour. The park, once private, was used by families of the owners and friends for hunting and fishing. Irish red deer (which we see from the carts) are still to be found, and the Lakes are 320 feet deep in places and fish include Salmon, brown and rainbow trout. We travel a good distance on the Lakes of Killarney visiting Innisfallen Abbey and stopping at Muckross House. The large House was privately owned and once was visited by Queen Victoria and her brood. We stay for lunch and a tour. The rain gradually lets up and the coach picks us up and back to the hotel for a free evening.
Driver Bob from Sheffield, and guide, Michael Benoit from London;
New Zealanders, Trevor and Alma, and Pat and Ellen;
Canadians, Anne and Garry, Ottawa, and Barbara from Toronto
Americans, Estelle and Marty (San Diego), Dick and Bonnie (Arkansas), John and Gloria (Pennsylvania), Ken and Gale (Florida and Illinois) and Roger and Susan (Maryland);
Australians, Graham and Cheryl, Margaret and her granddaughter, Jessica, Kevin and Julie, Corinne and Sonia, Gordon and Mitzi, sisters Gabrielle and Nicole, Don and Allison, Graham and Jennifer, Betty and Fay, Lu and Yy, sisters Rita and Helen, and Joan, Janine and Marj.
Finally, after a late breakfast, we leave by pony and cart to Killarney National Park. This is our first day of rain and fortunately it is light and not steady and the day is warm. I do get to don my bright yellow rain hat straight from Newfoundland which I am told makes me look like a fireman. We luck out, getting a cart and pony (Jimmy) driven by one of the old hands, “Mick” who has fun teasing the ladies in our group which consists of Anne and I, John and Gloria from Maryland, and Australians, Corinne and Sonia. Corinne and Anne seem to be his main targets and Anne is called “Ducky-duck” and Corinne, “Princess”. The ride is quite enjoyable and when we arrive at the ruins of Ross Castle we board open boats about 20 feet in length, sturdy and holding about 12 per boat. The boatmen again are locals, and very knowledgeable about the area with the usual Irish humour. The park, once private, was used by families of the owners and friends for hunting and fishing. Irish red deer (which we see from the carts) are still to be found, and the Lakes are 320 feet deep in places and fish include Salmon, brown and rainbow trout. We travel a good distance on the Lakes of Killarney visiting Innisfallen Abbey and stopping at Muckross House. The large House was privately owned and once was visited by Queen Victoria and her brood. We stay for lunch and a tour. The rain gradually lets up and the coach picks us up and back to the hotel for a free evening.
We rest up then a bit of shopping and Anne finds an Irish knit sweater. We meet up with Estelle, Marty, Ken, Gale, Roger, Susan, Cheryl and Graham at an outside patio near the hotel and then we are off to dinner with Graham and Cheryl where our first lamb is found on the menu. Then off to Danny Mann for another evening of Irish music, this time with the Irish Weavers. A great time and Graham and I finish off with a “Jamie” and we buy one of their videos, which Cheryl has signed while I take the photo. Then back to the hotel after a busy and fun day. The weather is still warm and cloudy.
Some more data..
94% of the republic are roman catholic, in Britain 49% are listed as Church of England…the difference being that the Irish actually practice their religion.
200 years ago the population of Ireland was 8 million but it decreased every year since 1740 until the trend was reversed in 1995.
Northern Ireland is referred to as Ulster with 2 million inhabitants compared to 4 million in the Republic
Police are called Garda and do not carry firearms.
We shift from miles to kilometres and from pounds to euros.
Paid hotel bill and exchange was 1.677 dollars per euro..better than pound.
Ireland appears to be in fairly bad economic condition with billions in debt and only 4 million people to pay it. Unemployment is closing in on 20% and they are about to come out with a new economic plan that will see huge service cuts, benefit reductions and cuts to civil service in jobs and pay. Average government salaries are 50,000 euros (close to 85k Canadian) but taxes are higher as are living costs. One estimate of a living wage is almost 40k for a family. Private sector average is just under 40k (euros).
94% of the republic are roman catholic, in Britain 49% are listed as Church of England…the difference being that the Irish actually practice their religion.
200 years ago the population of Ireland was 8 million but it decreased every year since 1740 until the trend was reversed in 1995.
Northern Ireland is referred to as Ulster with 2 million inhabitants compared to 4 million in the Republic
Police are called Garda and do not carry firearms.
We shift from miles to kilometres and from pounds to euros.
Paid hotel bill and exchange was 1.677 dollars per euro..better than pound.
Ireland appears to be in fairly bad economic condition with billions in debt and only 4 million people to pay it. Unemployment is closing in on 20% and they are about to come out with a new economic plan that will see huge service cuts, benefit reductions and cuts to civil service in jobs and pay. Average government salaries are 50,000 euros (close to 85k Canadian) but taxes are higher as are living costs. One estimate of a living wage is almost 40k for a family. Private sector average is just under 40k (euros).
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